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Jamaica Kingston Hilton Hotel

The Hilton is an imposing mass of pink stucco pierced with oversize sheets of tinted glass. It is an almost peas-in-the-pod version of the Pegasus. Sometimes in the middle of the night when you wake up in a room, you won't be able to immediately tell which hotel is sheltering you. The main core of the hotel is a 16-floor tower, containing 220 guest rooms. There are also some poolside units. Completely refurbished bedrooms feature up-to-date appointments, and midsize tiled bathrooms come with combination tubs and showers. For a view of the city and the Blue Mountains, go for a tower room; otherwise, book one of the plush accommodations around the "swimming hole". Fine cuisine is offered at the Terrace Cafe, providing a la carte Jamaican and international food. The Rendezvous Bar and Palm Court Restaurant offer more elegant dining and fine wines.

77 Knutsford Blvd. (P.O. Box 112), Kingston 5. 303 units. $160-$180 double; $225-$265 suite. Children under 12 stay free in parents' room. AE, DC, MC, V. In the center of New Kingston, near Oxford Rd. Amenities: 3 restaurants; bar; night club; pool; 2 tennis courts; gym; room service; laundry service; dry cleaning. In room: NC, TV, hair dryer, safe.

Le Meridien Jamaica Pegasus

A favorite with business travelers, the Jamaica Pegasus barely outclasses its nearest rival, the Hilton, in a close race. It's located in the banking area of Kingston, which is also a fine residential area. After a major renovation, the hotel is now better than ever and is the site of many conventions and social events. The hotel combines British style with Jamaican warmth, arranging watersports and sightseeing. Each of the well-furnished bedrooms is of moderate size and contains bathrooms with combination tubs and showers and balconies opening onto mountain, sea, or cityscapes. The decorating, in dark tones, often brown, makes you yearn for the lighter pastel look of most Caribbean hotel bedrooms. Several floors of luxuriously appointed suites form the Knutsford Club, which offers special executive services.

The 4pm tea service is a bit of a social event among some residents. The premier restaurant is The Columbus. The Brasserie is the hotel's informal restaurant that opens onto the swimming pool, where a splashing fountain cools the air. It adjoins a circular bar near the pool, at which occasional barbecues are prepared.

81 Knutsford Blvd., Kingston 5. 343 units. $190-$205 double; from $291 suite. AE, MC, V. In the center of New Kingston, off Oxford Rd., a 12-mile (19km) taxi ride from the Kingston airport. Amenities: 3 restaurants; 2 bars; pool; 2 tennis courts; gym; room service; babysitting; laundry service; dry cleaning. In room: A/C, TV, minibar, hair dryer, safe.

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