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Strawberry Hill - Modern Jamaican

The most charming restaurant in the Jamaican capital involves a taxi ride up a meandering Blue Mountain road to the hotel with the same name. Dining is within an interconnected series of catwalks, verandas, and gazebo-style pavilions that were meticulously re-created along 19th-century patterns. Each manages to seem simultaneously upscale yet unpretentious. The delectable menu items change with the season, but are likely to include such Jamaican dishes as grilled shrimp with fresh cilantro, fresh grilled fish with jerk mango and sweet-pepper salsa, or rotis stuffed with curried goat and fresh herbs. It's called new Jamaican cuisine, and it is. Sunday brunches here are enduringly popular, thanks partly to a lavish array of more than 40 dishes, each arranged in a separate gazebo-like pavilion like a temple to fine gastronomy.

Irish Town, Blue Mountains. Reservations recommended. Lunch main courses $20-$25; set-price Sun brunch $45; 3-course set-price dinner $49. AE, MC, V. Daily noon-3pm and 6-1 Opm; Sun brunch 11:30-3pm. From Kingston, drive 7 miles (11km) north, following Old Hope Rd. to the northern suburb of Papin. When you get to Papin, turn left onto Gordon Town Rd., cross a bridge, and turn left onto Newcastle Rd., where you go left. From there, follow the steep uphill road for another 7 miles (11km) along dramatic and winding mountain roads, following the signs to Strawberry Hill.

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