Kingston

Jamaica > Kingston > Port Royal

From West Beach Dock, Kingston, a ferry ride of 20 to 30 minutes will take you to Port Royal, subject of a hundred adventure novels that conjure up visions of swashbuckling pirates, led by Henry Morgan, swilling grog in harbor taverns. This was once one of the largest trading centers of the New World, with a reputation for being the "wickedest city on earth." Blackbeard stopped here regularly on his Caribbean trips. But it all came to an end on June 7, 1692, when a third of the town disappeared underwater during a devastating earthquake.

Today, Port Royal, derelict and rundown, is a small fishing village. Some 2,000 residents-and a lot of ghosts-live here. A seafaring tradition continues, and the town is famous for both fresh seafood and quaint architecture. Once there were six forts here with a total of 145 guns; some of the guns remain today, but only Fort Charles still stands.

Seeing The Sights

As you drive along the Palisades, you arrive first at St. Peter's Church. It's usually closed, but you may persuade the caretaker, who lives opposite, to open it if you want to see the silver plate, said to be spoils captured by Henry Morgan from the cathedral in Panama. In the ill-kept graveyard is the tomb of Lewis Galdy, a Frenchman swallowed up and subsequently regurgitated by the 1692 earthquake.

Fort Charles, the only one remaining of Port Royal's six forts, has withstood attack, earthquake, fire, and hurricane. Built in 1656 and later strengthened by Henry Morgan himself for his own purposes, the fort displays scale models of ships from past eras. It's open daily from 9am to 5pm; admission is J$ 100 (US$2).

Where To Stay - Morgan's Harbor Hotel & Beach Club

Set on 22 acres of flat and rock-studded seashore, this resort includes the largest marina in Kingston, plus a breezy waterfront restaurant and a popular bar. The well-furnished bedrooms are laid out in an 18th-century Chippendale - Jamaican style. Medium-size bathrooms are tidily maintained, with tub/shower combinations. The Buccaneer Scuba Club organizes dives to some of the 170-odd wrecks lying close to shore. Deep-sea-fishing charters and trips to outlying cays can also be arranged.

Port Royal, Kingston 1. 51 units. $150 double; $210 suite. AE, MC, V. Take the public ferryboat that departs every 2 hr. from near Victoria Pier on Ocean Blvd.; many visitors arrive by car or taxi. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; pool; scuba diving; room service; laundry service; dry cleaning. In room: A/C, TV, kitchenette, fridge, hair dryer.

Where To Dine

Sir Henry Morgan's Restaurant - International/Jamaican

The bar and restaurant offer guests panoramic views of Kingston Bay and the Blue Mountains. Except for the elegant lobster or seafood salad, lunch is a relatively simple affair. You can order various sandwiches and desserts, along with a daily luncheon special-a traditional Jamaican dish. The catch of the day is steamed or fried. You get more of a choice at dinner; your best bet is either the fresh Jamaican lobster, which can be prepared in a number of ways - everything from thermidor to grilled with garlic butter. The traditional Jamaican pepper steak, with hot and sweet peppers, is excellent, as is the selection of homemade ice creams to finish your meal.

In Morgan's Harbor Hotel & Beach Club, Port Royal. Main courses J$400-J$1,500 (US$9.20-US$34.50). AE, MC, V. Daily 7am-10:30pm.

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