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Beaches Royal Plantation Golf Resort & Spa

Now under the Beaches banner, this famous North Shore hotel evokes an antebellum Southern mansion from which you expect Vivien Leigh to come rushing out at any moment. This is a first-rate resort, offering everything from scuba diving to elegant bars and luxe restaurants. Lying just east of Ocho Rios, it offers two private white sand beaches-and, after a $10-million renovation, has taken on the air of a European spa. The luxurious suites, spread over two wings, all open onto views of the Caribbean and evoke private villas; all are fitted with deluxe bathrooms, some come with private Roman tubs. Cuisine here is more upscale than at the two other Sandals properties in Ocho Rios.

P.O. Box 2, Main St., Ocho Rios. 74 units. Winter $800-$1,250 suite for 2. Off-season $650-$1,200 suite for 2. AE, DISC, MC, V. Amenities: 3 restaurants; 2 bars; pool; tennis; gym; spa; sauna; watersports; business center; room service; massage; laundry service. In room: A/C, TV, minibar, coffeemaker, hair dryer, safe.

Couples Ocho Rios

This is a couples-only resort (and management defines couples as "any man and woman in love"). Most visiting couples are married, and many are on their honeymoon. Everything is in pairs, even the chairs by the moon-drenched beach. Some guests slip away from the resort, which is 5 miles (8km) east of town, to Couples' private island and bask in the buff. A shuttle boat transports visitors offshore to the beautiful little island, which has a fine sandy beach, a bar, a pool, and a hot tub. Security guards keep gawks from bothering the guests.

In general, this is a classier operation than the more mass-market Sandals at Dunn's River and Ocho Rios. The bedrooms have either king-size beds or two doubles, pleasantly traditional furnishings, and patios fronting either the sea or the mountains. Good-size bathrooms have showers in the older units, showers and tubs in newer units. For a chain all-inclusive, the cuisine here is above average.

Tower Isle, along Rte. A3 (P.O. Box 330), Ocho Rios. 201 units. Winter $1,350-$2,550 double; $2,085 suite. Off-season $1,230-$2,350 double; $1,800 suite. Rates are all-inclusive for 3 nights. AE, MC, V. The hotel usually accepts bookings for a minimum of any 3 nights of the week, though most guests book by the week; a 4-day stay is sometimes required at certain peak periods, such as over the Christmas holidays. No children 17 or under. Amenities: 4 restaurants; 4 bars; pool; 5 tennis courts; health club; spa; 5 Jacuzzis; sauna; scuba diving; snorkeling; windsurfing; sailing; water-skiing; bike rentals; room service (breakfast only); laundry service. In room: A/C, TV, coffeemaker, hair dryer.

The Enchanted Garden

This greenest of Jamaican resorts sits on a secluded hilltop high above the commercial center of town. Owned and developed by Edward Seaga, former Jamaican prime minister, the land includes 20 acres of rare botanical specimens, trails, and 14 cascading waterfalls. The hotel operates a shuttle bus that departs at 30-minute intervals from 9am to 5pm, making the 12-minute run to the nearest good beach at Mammee Bay.

The lobby is housed in a pink tower accented with white gingerbread; the interior sports marble floors, big windows, and enormous potted palms. The bedrooms are contained in eight low-rise buildings amid the resort's carefully landscaped grounds. All roomy, elegantly furnished units have sturdy rattan furniture, queen or king beds, and private patios or balconies; some contain kitchens. The spacious bathrooms have tub/shower combinations.

The resort's restaurants serve Continental, Thai, Japanese, Indonesian, and regional Chinese cuisines, and they do so rather well. Annabella's nightclub provides after-dinner entertainment.

Eden Bower Rd. (P.O. Box 284), Ocho Rios.113 units. Winter $310-$330 double; from $370 suite. Off-season $280 double; from $320 suite. Rates are all-inclusive per couple. AE, MC, V. Amenities: 5 restaurants; 4 bars; 2 pools; 2 tennis courts; health club; spa; Jacuzzi; watersports; salon; walk-in aviary with hundreds of exotic birds; shuttle bus. In room: A/C, TV, kitchen (some units), coffeemaker, hair dryer.

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