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Jamaica Inn, Ocho Rios

Built in 1950, the gracious beachfront Jamaica Inn is a series of long, low buildings set in a U-shape near the sea, 1 1/2 miles (2 km) east of town. Noel Coward was a regular, and Errol Flynn and Ian Fleming used to drop in from time to time. It's an elegant anachronism, a true retro hotel, and has remained little changed in 4 decades, avoiding the glitter of all-inclusives like Sandals.

Lovely patios open onto the lawns, and the bedrooms are reached along garden paths. Guest rooms are very spacious, with colonial two-poster beds, quality carved-wood period pieces, and balustraded balconies opening onto views. Bathrooms are elegant and roomy, gleaming with marble vanities, combination shower/tubs, robes, and deluxe toiletries. The beach is a wide, champagne-colored strip. Close to the shore, the sea is almost too clear to make snorkeling an adventure, but farther out it's rewarding. The European-trained chef prepares both refined international and Jamaican dishes. The emphasis is on cuisine that uses fresh local produce. Men must wear a jacket and tie at night in winter.

Main St. (P.O. Box 1), Ocho Rios. 45 units. Winter (including full breakfast, afternoon tea, and 5-course dinner) $550-$795 double; from $1,200 suite for 2. Off-season (including MAP-breakfast and dinner) $300-$445 double; from $500 suite for 2. AE, MC, V. Children 13 and under not accepted.

Amenities: Restaurant; 2 bars; pool; tennis court; exercise room; Sunfish, kayaks; room service; laundry service. In room: A/C, hair dryer, safe.

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