The South Coast

Jamaica > South Coast & Mandeville > Mandeville

Mandeville

Called the "English Town," because of its lingering British influence, Mandeville lies on a plateau more than 2,000 feet (600m) above the sea in the tropical highlands of Don Figuerero Mountains. Much cooler than the coastal resorts, it's a possible base from which to explore the South Coast.

Hotels

Golf View Hotel

This hotel won't win any prizes for architectural finesse-it looks like a hospital. But despite its shortcomings, its one of the best-maintained and most efficiently managed hotels in the area. It's a motel-like property with a small pool that's found in an unattractive courtyard. We'd give the Mandeville Hotel (see below) higher marks, though it too is a bit Spartan. About half of the rooms here overlook the verdant fairways of the local golf course (Manchester Country Club); others front a swimming pool and a banal courtyard. Rooms are outfitted motel-style with relatively comfortable furnishings. About a third of them have air-conditioning, and each is equipped with a shower-only bathroom. 5 1/2 Caledonia Rd, Mandeville. 51 units. $55-$75 double; $601 -bedroom suite; $80 2-bedroom suite. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; pool; babysitting; laundry service. In room: A/C (some units), TV.

Mandeville Hotel

This ornate hotel dates from 1875, once housing part of the British military garrison. In the 1970s, the original hotel was replaced with a modern structure. There's a spacious lounge, and good food and service. Bedrooms range in size from small to spacious, furnished with Jamaican styling, often including a four-poster bed and mahogany furniture. Bathrooms are old-fashioned but tidily maintained, each with a shower. There are attractive gardens, plus golf and tennis at the nearby Manchester Country Club.

There is no pretension to the food at all; it's simple, homemade fare. From the dining room, you'll have a view of the pool and the green hills of central Jamaica.

4 Hotel St. (P.O. Box 78), Mandeville. 29 units. $80-$125 double. AE, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; pool; room service; laundry service. In room: TV, kitchenette (some units), fridge, coffeemaker, hair dryer, safe.

Restaurants

Bloomf ield Great House - International

This is the only restaurant in town that's viewed as a destination in its own right. Serving excellent food in an intricately restored setting of historic interest, it's a hangout for the town's expatriate Australians, Brits, Americans, and Scandinavians. Surrounded by 5 acres of landscaping, it's perched on a hilltop about a 1/4-mile (.4m) south of the town's commercial core, in a verdant residential neighborhood of upscale private homes. Start off with a drink in the cozy mahogany-trimmed pub before dining on the rambling veranda (with views that sweep out over the town), or a high-ceilinged dining room with colonial-style trim and moldings. Superb menu items include smoked marlin with black caviar and lime-flavored aioli, char-broiled filet mignon with sherry sauce and crispy onions, plantain-crusted chicken served with passion fruit vinaigrette, and a delicious version of jumbo shrimp stuffed with jalapeno pepper, wrapped in bacon, and served with barbecue sauce. The pastas are made on site.

8 Perth Rd. Reservations recommended for dinner. Lunch main courses J$250-J$915 ($5.75-$21.05); dinner main courses J$415-J$995 ($9.55-$22.90). AE, DISC, MC, V. Mon-Sat noon-9pm.

The Den - Jamaican

One of Mandevilles more venerated old favorites, this restaurant is installed in a century-old setting that was once a family home. You dine in what were the occupants' former bedrooms in a setting of wood and wicker furnishings, with an old rustic feeling. You can eat inside or outdoors, and sometimes-mostly on Friday night-there is live music in the garden, even jazz. The chefs know their pots and pans, and turn out a savory cuisine including well-prepared grilled curry chicken, a steak kebab (with onions, pineapple, and peppers), and both jerk chicken and pork. Fish 'n chips appears often, as does a mix of grilled steak, chicken, and pork.

35 Caledonia RdReservations recommended. Main courses J$300-J$500 ($6.90-$11.50). DC, MC, V. Mon-Sat noon-9pm.

Discovering the Town

Mandeville sprawls across hills, but its historic core is easy to walk. The town centers around Cecil Charlton Park*, named for a former mayor. The Mandeville Courthouse stands on the northern tier of this plaza. Built of cut limestone in 1816 in Georgian style, it has an unusual double staircase and is graced with Doric columns.

Adjoining the courthouse is the Rectory-the oldest structure in town, completed in 1820. Throughout its long history, it was both a tavern and a hotel before reverting to its current status as a private residence. On the south side of the square rises St. Mark's Church, also established in 1820. Its worth a look inside for its timbered clerestory. The graveyard is filled with tombs of British soldiers who died in a yellow fever epidemic.

Shopping in the town is a pleasure, whether in the old center or in a modern complex such as Grove Court. The market in the center of town teems with life, particularly on weekends when country folk ride into town on their weekly visits. Its open Monday to Saturday 9am to 4pm.

A private garden in the area worth visiting is Mrs. Stephenson's Garden *, 25 New Green Rd., one of the most beautiful and well maintained in the area. An artist, Carmen Stephenson, still supervises this flamboyant "secret garden" herself. Call ahead for an appointment. The cost is a well-spent $2.

Exploring the Area

The Manchester Country Club, Brumalia Road, is Jamaica's oldest golf course, though it only has nine holes. Beautiful vistas unfold from 2,201 feet (661m) above sea level. Greens fees are J$750 ($17.25), with caddy fees running J$500 ($11.50). The course has a clubhouse, and this also one of the best places in central Jamaica to play tennis.

Marshall's Pen is a 200-year-old working coffee plantation you can tour. A contribution of $10 is requested for a minimum of six people; for information or an appointment, contact Ann or Robert Sutton, Marshall's Pen, Great House, P.O. Box 58, Mandeville.

If you like coffee, visit the Jamaican Standard Products Company, 2 miles (3km) north of Mandeville in Williamsfield. Call Monday through Friday about free tours. The factory, which has a wonderful aroma, exports mainly to Japan; it packages Blue Mountain coffee beans and its own "High Mountain" coffee. The factory also turns out spices, sauces, even tea. Call from Sam to 5pm; tours begin at 9:30am.

Discuss This Article (Mandeville)